ON SELECTING A HANDGUN

 

by RFWG Guest Writer Jim Stouffer

 

Much has been written on the subject of purchasing your first handgun. This article will attempt to simplify the jargon and address the topic in order to make your first handgun purchase a pleasant experience.

 

                There are many things to consider before you make that first handgun purchase. First,  you must ask yourself what the intended use is to be. If you want a handgun for hunting large game you wouldn’t purchase a 22 cal. revolver. If the intended use is for personal protection and you intend to carry it, you wouldn’t purchase a 454 Causill or a on the other end of the spectrum, you wouldn’t be satisfied with a 22 cal.  Again, what is the intended use of the pistol? Single use or multi-use? Will it be for target shooting, competitive shooting, personal protection, hunting etc?

 

                Let’s assume you want a handgun for personal protection and you intend to carry it concealed. First, be sure you are legally permitted to do so in your state. Then there are several things you need to consider.  The question I get asked most often is, “What caliber should I buy?”  The second most asked question is, “What brand or manufacturer  makes the best handgun?” The answers are quite simple.  Buy the largest caliber that you can shoot comfortably and buy a reputable name brand handgun. Remember, your life may depend on whether it goes ‘bang’ when it’s supposed to.  The next most often asked question is, “Should I buy new or used?” Well, that depends. Do you know anything about handguns? Could you tell whether a use gun is in good serviceable condition or not?  If not, by all means buy new! If you are familiar with handguns and can trust your life on your judgment then go ahead and look for a good used one.

 

                OK, you’ve decided to buy a new handgun for personal defense. We will assume you cannot handle a 45 cal. And have settled on a 9mm. You have a multitude of manufacturers to choose from. Just to name a few in no particular order there is Smith and Wesson, Glock, Taurus, Springfield, Ruger, Sig Sauer on and on. At this point in your purchase journey you need to visit some gun shops and start looking, handling and shooting if it is possible. Try, if you can, different manufacturers models.

                Here is where we get to the nitty gritty of a handgun purchase. The most important thing to consider is, does it fit your hand? I’ll guarantee if a handgun doesn’t fit your hand you won’t like it. It won’t shoot well and you will wonder whether there is something wrong with it. Proper fit is far more important than how much it costs! The grip must feel comfortable in your hand and the pad of you index finger (no deeper than the first joint) MUST be able to pull the trigger straight back with no reaching, stretching or in the case of a gun that is too small, no ‘backing out’ of the trigger guard in order to achieve the first pad position.

                The next few items are in no particular order but must be considered. Do you intend to carry in a belt holster, inside the waist band, shoulder holster, fanny pack, ladies gun purse? What barrel length will serve my needs? If you intend to carry inside the waist band of your trousers a long barreled gun is not for you.  Smaller is better. If you intend to carry in a shoulder holster you can get away with a longer barreled gun.

                Do you intend to carry all the time or infrequently?  Handgun weight then becomes a consideration. 1911 style 45 cal. semi-autos tend to be heavy.  I forgot, we are buying a 9mm.  Steel guns are heaviest, polymer frame guns as well as aluminium frames and titainium framed guns are lightest. The down side to lighter frame guns is they tend to shoot harder and have more felt recoil than steel frame guns. I have a S&W model 642 aluminium framed 38 cal. revolver that shoots like a hand cannon compared to my Sig Sauer steel framed gun.

                Should it have fixed or adjustable sights or maybe night sights? Ah! another good question. Personal preference rules here. I prefer night sights, the reason being is that most personal defense encounters occur in low light conditions. If you have never compared night sights ( they glow) with regular sights you need to do so.  As to fixed or adjustable, I opt for fixed on a personal defense gun for several reasons. Adjustable sights tend to protrude or stick out more so than fixed and are more apt to hang up on clothing when drawing the gun.  Also, most personal defense encounters occur at 10 feet or less!  You don’t need bullseye target type accuracy on a personal defense handgun.

 

 

 

 

Let’s regroup so as not to loose our perspective. Let’s say we have decided to purchase (imaginary) a 9mm. Glock. Glocks fit our hand just fine. It has a polymer frame so it isn’t too heavy.  The next consideration is this. Glock 9mm’s  come in three frame sizes. To oversimplify it small, medium and large. The small size (sub-compact) is called the mod. 26, the medium sized frame (compact) is the mod.19 and the full sized frame (standard) is the mod.17. We will need to decide which frame size suits our needs. The mod. 26 is suited for deep concealed carry. The mod. 19 is a good all-around size and very common among the concealed carry aficionados. The mod. 17 is also good for belt holster carry if you have a body type that allows you to conceal it. Now to elaborate a little………………

Types and Sizes: Pros and Cons

Small Frame Pistols

Most little guns are unpleasant to shoot. Being very light and having small grips, their muzzle flip is very bad. After a few rounds your hand may begin to hurt. Shoot a match or take a class at Gunsite with one of these pocket guns? Forget it. If you don't learn to use it, how much good is it going to do you when the chips are down? In this group, I would include the small Berettas, Airweight snubnose revolvers, Seecamp .32's and derringers. There may be a place for these pistols, but they all suffer from serious inadequacies. The Airweight snubnose .38 Special revolver is a nice looking gun  but it is unpleasant to fire.

Medium Frame Revolvers

Even though medium frame revolvers have been around for 165 years, they remain an excellent choice. These pistols are simple to use and accurate. They can handle hot loads and larger bullets making them effective personal defense weapons as well as good target shooters.  Examples of this class of pistol are the Ruger GP Series and the S&W Model 66. The ideal revolver would have a 3" to 4" barrel, a six-round cylinder, and a grip that fits your hand. The biggest drawback of these pistols is the speed of reloading, but with practice, a revolver can be reloaded as quickly as an autoloader.

Medium Frame Auto Pistols

The overwhelming majority of professional trainers, operators, law enforcement and military people prefer medium to large framed autoloading pistols. These pistols have the best combination of speed, firepower, accuracy, and power. These pistols will generally load 8-10 rounds in their magazines (or more if you can find the older pre-ban high capacity magazines), have full-length grips, and 3.5" or longer barrels. These guns tend to have adequate accuracy, power, and large enough grips to be comfortable. Examples of this type of pistol would be the Glock 17, 19, 21 and 22, the Smith & Wesson 39xx, 59xx, and 69xx series, the Sig Sauer  22x series, the H&K USP and P7, the Kimber ProCarry and Compact, the Springfield Champion, Para-Ordnance P12, and many others.

Large Frame Pistols and Revolvers

Big pistols shoot more accurately, absorb more recoil, and develop greater muzzle velocity due to their longer barrels. I would include in this group the Beretta 92, the Colt Government Model M1911 (and clones), The N Frame Smith & Wesson  revolvers, Colt Python, Anaconda and their copies. Characteristically, these guns have 5" barrels and weigh 36 oz. or more. The biggest drawback of these pistols is their weight. They get heavy and small framed people may have difficulty handling them.

Autoloader Action Types

There are four types of actions around which semi-auto pistols are built. It's important to understand the differences:

Single Action –examples are:  M1911 Colt .45 ACP and Browning Hi-Power 9mm

This is the oldest autoloader design still in service, designed by John Browning (with the help of the Army Ordnance Board) during the period between 1905 and 1911. The hammer must be cocked, generally by racking the slide, for the gun to fire. This design in .45 ACP, .40 S&W and .38 Super is favored by competitive shooters, FBI SWAT, FBI Hostage Rescue Team, and many special forces units because it has the best trigger, outstanding accuracy and is very fast. For the gun to be carried in a state of readiness, the hammer must be cocked and the manual safety applied, "cocked and locked" (see "The Conditions of Readiness"). This looks scary and is not recommended for novices or those suffering from attention deficit disorder.

Double Action/Single Action – examples are: Beretta 92F (Armed Forces M9), most Smith & Wesson autos, SIG, Walther, and some Rugers.

This has been the standard design for most autos for the last 50 years. These pistols are cocked by the first trigger pull, but subsequent shots are cocked by the action of the slide cycling back. Consequently, the first trigger pull is long and harder (Double Action) since it is also cocking the hammer. Subsequent trigger pulls are easy (Single Action) since the hammer is already cocked. These guns have an external safety lever which puts the gun on safe and de-cocks the hammer. This is generally thought to be the safest design since the long, heavy first trigger pull and the external safety which blocks the firing pin tend to prevent accidental discharges. The criticism of this design is that it forces the shooter to learn two different trigger pulls and accuracy often suffers on the first double action shot. Most accidental discharges with these sorts of pistols are the result of the shooter forgetting to de-cock the hammer.

Double Action/Single Action with De-Cocker Only –example is: Ruger and SIG

This is a variant of the DA/SA which is used by Ruger and SIG. It functions just like a DA/SA except the "safety" lever is not a safety. It only de-cocks the hammer, but the gun will still fire when the de-cocker is applied and the trigger is pulled. I personally do not like this design since the de-cocker looks just like a safety lever but does not put the gun on safe.

 

Double Action Only - Glock, Smith & Wesson Sigma, some Berettas, some Rugers, Kahr, Kel-Tec, and others.

This is the newest action design made popular by Glock. With these pistols every trigger pull is the same and they have no external safety or decocking levers. The hammers are not cocked by the cycling of the slide (except for the Glocks which are pre-cocked by the slide cycle, and are not true double action). DAO pistols depend on the long double action trigger pull to prevent accidental discharges. In a sense these are autoloaders which fire like revolvers. Triggers vary from model to model. Some, like the Glocks, have very light triggers. Other DAO triggers can be quite heavy and long, and can be very unpleasant to shoot. The advantage of this action is its simplicity and the fact that every trigger pull is the same.

Calibers and Power

In descending order of power here are the most common calibers of pistols,  the .45 ACP,  the .357 Magnum, the .40 S&W, the .44 Special and the 9mm., the .38 Special and the .380 ACP lastly the 22 caliber.

The Selection Process

Don't be in a rush to buy the first gun you see. Give it a lot of thought. Ideally, shoot as many pistols as you can before you make a decision. Some gun ranges have pistols you can rent to see how they feel. If you have friends who own pistols, go shooting with them. Most will be happy to let you shoot their guns and share with you their experiences with them.

Be careful about the advice of clerks at gun stores. Some are very knowledgeable but many others are total idiots. Just because someone works at a gun store doesn't necessarily mean that he or she is an expert on pistols. They will all offer an opinion, whether they actually know anything about the matter or not.

I would also maintain a healthy degree of skepticism toward articles in popular gun magazines. They don’t make money by trashing the offerings of their advertisers. I have never seen a bad review in a gun magazine.

Your physical strength and conditioning may also be a factor, i.e., powerful auto pistols tend to function better for people with strong arms and hands. How much time do you have to devote to practice? As a rule of thumb, autos require more training than revolvers, so don't pick a single-action .45 auto if you're not willing to learn to use it.

As important as any other single factor is the size and geometry of your hand. Hand size varies greatly between people and it is very important to handle a gun and note carefully the comfort of the grip and the position of the controls on the pistol. If you can't easily manipulate every control on the gun with either hand, then find a different gun. People with short thumbs may have trouble with the safety of an M1911. People with short palms may have difficulty with the thick handles of the double-stack 9mm and .40 pistols. People with meaty hands may be "bitten" by the slide of a small auto when it cycles.

Ask yourself these questions: Does the gun feel good in your hand? Is the trigger smooth or is it rough and heavy? Does the gun have the right balance of power, weight and size. In other words, does it feel good in your hand?

 

Price?

It isn’t good  to make a decision on a handgun based on price. No one wants to pay more than we have to or what is fair, but price should be the last consideration. You won’t remember a hundred or so dollars extra you paid for the right pistol, but you will remember the ill-fitting bargain pistol that doesn’t shoot right or feel good.

 

Summarization:

…………. What is the intended use of the pistol? Single use or multi-use? Will it be for target shooting, competitive shooting, personal protection, hunting etc? Should it have fixed or adjustable sights or maybe night sights? What caliber and barrel length will serve your needs? What size and weight is comfortable for you? Length of trigger pull, proper grip size and distance from trigger to grip is most important, the pistol MUST fit your hand to shoot accurately. Hold it, feel it, fire it if you can, and recognize that you're going to spend a lot of time with the pistol. Remember also, that if you are buying for personal protection, it may be called upon someday to defend your life.

 

If you find that you enjoy the shooting sports you may end up buying not only one, but  two or three pistols, each for a specific purpose.  It may be difficult to decide which pistol to buy, however, here’s hoping you have a most enjoyable experience.

 

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